Pine kernel and lemon cookies, sultana and cranberry sponge | Nigel Slater

Baking is always such a comfort, from nut cookies to a nice steamed pud

The first pan of pine kernels went up in expensive smoke, so I watched the second batch of diminutive, creamy-white nuts as intently as a hawk might watch a family of field mice, toasting them until they were evenly pale golden in colour.

I folded some of them into a sticky, marzipan and lemon-scented biscuit dough, while the rest were used to freckle the surface once the biscuits were rolled and ready to bake.
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